(Vegetarian, Vegan, Gluten-free)
Surely, there were days before the rain. Certainly, there will be days that follow that bring no rain. I know that it’s spring with a capital S and that the gummy mud spreading across my flower beds is holding, under the gurgling surface, seeds and roots that are soaking up this generous waterfall in preparation for breaking into life. Even so, I’ll be glad for some sun with a capital S.
It’s in these transitory days, the time between the worlds, that I crave a dish that’s bursting with life. Black Nightfall Beans with Walnut Sauce certainly fits the bill. The walnut oil gives a thicker, creamier consistency than olive oil would while also offering a delicate flavor, and the oil contains high levels of Omega 3s. Note though, this is not a good cooking oil because heat makes it go bitter. Paired with fresh basil and parsley and scallions, this dish is lively and clean. The walnut oil and the fresh basil add a bit of extra cost, but in the middle of incessant cold rain, it’s so worth it. I call this dish the restoration of faith in the return of spring. Like last week’s succotash, this dish has relatively few ingredients and is easy to make.
The bean du jour is Black Nightfall, which I found at Rancho Gordo. Wacky, irreverent, and full of culinary surprises, this place is definitely worth checking out.
Black Nightfall beans are plump and white and air brushed with black – I suppose the way the sky looks when night is seeping into the remaining daylight. When cooked, they turn a soft reddish-black shade and hold their shape, but as soon as you bite into them they fairly melt in your mouth. They have a bit of sweetness, which would make them work well in spicy or smoky dishes.
A note: I thought this recipe would be good for eating straight, like a bean salad, but the walnut oil and creamy beans give this a pretty hefty mouthfeel. Tim, who photographed this for me, and I ended up spreading it onto toasted bread and eating it like a bean dip. The bread absorbs some of the oil.
Before we get onto the recipe, a bit of seed-geek news. I had the honor of meeting and talking with Diane Ott Whealy last weekend, at a reception at Bowood Farms. Diane is the co-founder of Seed Saver’s Exchange, and she came to talk about the SSE seed collection and the preservation work they are doing. She presented a slideshow which was stunning beyond words
If her intent was to inspire us all, it worked. I’ve got little seedlings poking up through the soil in my makeshift greenhouse (really, a sun porch desperately in need of insulation and new windows). I’ve also got seeds on the way, from SSE and Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds. Beans? You betcha. I’m going to be farming a bit of land this summer, so plenty of room to grow out the beans that will get me through the end of the year, but more on that later.
The Recipe
Black Nightfall Beans with Walnut Sauce
1 ¾ cups cooked Black Nightfall beans, with about 1/3 cup of their water reserved
¾ cup walnuts
A bit of olive oil, for sautéing
3 garlic cloves, minced
4 teaspoons champagne vinegar (you could use white wine vinegar)
2 tablespoons walnut oil
3 scallions
4 tablespoons fresh cilantro
4 tablespoons fresh parsley
3 tablespoons fresh basil
A pinch or two of cayenne (optional)
Salt and pepper to taste
In small skillet, sauté two of the garlic cloves in a bit of olive oil until translucent. In a food processor, combine raw and cooked garlic and the walnuts. Pulse a few times to crumble. Add oil, vinegar, and about 3 tablespoons of the reserved water. Whirl in food processor, adding more water if necessary, until you have a smooth paste. Add half the fresh herbs, plus the scallions, salt, pepper and cayenne if using. Whirl once more, briefly, to work ingredients in. Spoon the sauce over the beans and garnish with the remaining fresh herbs.
You can make this in advance and store in the refrigerator, but let it come to room temperature before serving.
I can almost taste this, looking at the gorgeous photo. I’m filing this under “another delicious way to use walnut oil”. Thanks for the recipe!
I’m a big fan of walnuts and walnut oil too (though one of my favorite uses for it is to polish wood — not recipe appropriate!). I love the way this one looks, and the beans sound really cool. I am really enjoying this parade of beans, and am looking forward to finding out what you’ll grow (and how it will work out for you). Keep posting!
wow this sounds wonderful! can’t wait to try it. thanks for sharing the recipe! and i adore the photographs!
It looks beautiful and ingredients sounds wonderful – it’s certainly my kind of salad to make. What would be a good substitue for Black Nightfall beans?
Hi Della
I suppose that would probably be good information to include in each post — how to substitute the bean if you can’t come by the heirloom. This one, despite being called a black bean, most closely resembles a red kidney when cooked, so you could get away with a generic red bean. Luckily, with few exceptions, the beans don’t generally have a strikingly unique flavor, so it’s more the texture that you’re trying to match. Then again, there are beans that really do have chocolate overtones or peppery finishes, almost like wine. But with this, use a kidney bean.