Food as Cosmic Imperative: Seek out new foods and new combinations

Kohlrabi Salad with Beets, Radish and Sunflower Sprouts

kohlrabi-radish-salad

This was what I had:  produce that looked more like it had hurtled through our atmosphere than pushed up through the soil. Sputnik and Alouette 1 on a plate.

sputnik-kohlrabi

sputnik-beet

A bowl that conjured up a swirling galaxy:

milky-way-bowl

Primordial ooze.

primordial-ooze

Ropey, DNA-like garlic scapes (oh, work with me here).

scapes

And this:

planet-ginger

I asked for a rock of ginger and received a space station.

Foreign as it looked, it was all local.  Every last ingredient, save for the ginger and citrus. My self-assigned mission was straightforward: to eat all this lively produce raw. I didn’t want to lose any of the vibrancy – or nutrients – to cooking.

So yes, you’re all so smart. The weird little sputnik-esque vegetable that I teased with last time is kohlrabi. Okay, well did you know that even though it’s associated with Asian cooking, it hails from northern Europe? Did you know that the word kohlrabi is a German one that literally means cabbage-turnip, and that this gives only a faint indication of what to expect when you bite in?  A member of the Brassica genus (same as cabbage and broccoli), the above-ground growing bulbs come in both white-green and purple. And not a bit of it need be wasted — tennis-ball sized bulbs are ideal, and when the plant is young like this the leaves may be eaten too.

purple-kohlrabi

So I’m curious to know – who has eaten kohlrabi? Who likes it and who doesn’t? It’s not terribly popular in the US yet, though I’m seeing more and more of it at the local markets this year, which must mean that that consumers are at least giving it a try. What do you make with it?

Those of you who haven’t eaten it must be wondering: what’s it taste like? To my palate, it’s a cross between cabbage and radish – cruciferous and slightly peppery when raw, with a hint of potato (which is why they are so good added to mashed tubers). Cooked, it becomes creamy and rich.

sprouts

The recipe:

Kohlrabi Salad with Beets, Radish and Sunflower Sprouts
2 tennis-ball sized kohlrabi bulbs
2 small beets
2 carrots
3 radishes
1/3 cup sunflower sprouts (pea shoots or even alfalfa sprouts work here too)

Orange-Ginger Vinaigrette
1 generous tablespoon fresh ginger
½ garlic scape, diced
1 small shallot, diced
½ cup canola oil, plus one tablespoon
1 teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons orange juice
Zest of half of one orange
2 tablespoons champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
Salt
Fresh ground pepper

scapes-ginger-half dressed-salad-half

For the salad: The key to success lies in slicing these veggies in such a way that they don’t make your jaw tired when you eat it. It’s a fair amount of work, but I find it best to first peel the veggies, then using the peeler, slice the beet, kohlrabi into thin rounds. Then using a knife, further slice these pieces  into thin sticks. Use the peeler to also cut the carrot and radishes into delicate pieces – there is no need to further cut these with a knife. Combine the sliced kohlrabi, beet, radish and carrot in a large salad bowl. Chop the sunflower sprouts into smaller pieces and sit these in.

For the vinaigrette, in a large skillet sauté the ginger, scape and shallot in a tablespoon of oil. Cook them very lightly, just to remove some of the bite from the ginger, which can be overwhelming. In a small bowl, combine the orange juice, orange zest, and vinegar. Add the salt and stir until it dissolves. Add the honey and combine well. Sprinkle in the dry mustard and whisk until it is incorporated. Finally, whisk in the oil, then add salt and pepper. Very lightly dress the kohlrabi salad – you can always add more vinaigrette but you can’t take it away.

beet-kohlrabi-salad-2

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12 Responses to “Food as Cosmic Imperative: Seek out new foods and new combinations”

  1. Lola says:

    Mmm, I vote yes for kohlrabi. I had it for the first time last year but I love its fresh flavor. I’ve never had purple, just white. I’ve also never had it uncooked, and not beets either for that matter so I’m looking forward to trying this.

  2. JBL says:

    LOVE the colors! Don’t love kohlrabi, but I’m not known for an adventurous palate. Cool with beets and radishes though.

  3. Deborah says:

    I think kohlrabi is the most beautiful vegetable — I saw some growing at a living history farm and fell in love. I’ve not had much success yet trying to grow it, but I am still working on it. I love your website, Becky; very inspiring.

  4. Stephanie says:

    I love kohlrabi, but it falls into the category of vegetables I only like raw (endive, cabbage, carrots, etc.). And it’s just gorgeous.

  5. What a pretty salad! I love the colors. I’ve only eaten kohlrabi raw. I’ll have to try it cooked sometime.

  6. Kat says:

    I had kohlrabi with dinner tonight! I boiled the greens until they were tender and slowly cooked slices of the bulb in butter, tossing in the tender greens at the end. With a bit of freshly ground pepper on top, it was simple yet decadent. I do love raw kohlrabi though, I say it has the flavor of a broccoli stem with the texture of a radish.

    • Becky says:

      Kat — what a lovely dinner, and a lovely description too. Food at its best — almost the way you’d find it in the garden!

  7. corinna says:

    I’ve had kohlrabi cooked and raw and love it both ways. But I’ve never had the sunflower sprouts. Where do you get them and what are they like? I love this recipe and really want to try it just as its written!

    • Becky says:

      Corinna, the sunflower sprouts came from the farmer’s market but I’ve made them before too. That is, grown them. I used black oil seeds from the feed and seed (as in bird seed), but often times you can find a farmer that sells “human grade” seeds as well. They’re fast, ready in about five days, but I’ve found it best to sprout them on soil. I just line a large cookie tray with soil, sprinkle it with seeds and wait.

  8. Amy says:

    Believe it or not (and you may not, after having heard about our bocce party!) Matt’s the one who introduced me to kohlrabi. He loves it straight-from-the-garden raw. This sounds like a delicious recipe!

  9. I’ve yet to stumble upon kohlrabi but I have this old cookbook that is all about kale, kohlrabi and cabbage that I want to try some recipes out of. It’s called Of Cabbages and Kings Cookbook by Charlotte Turgeon

  10. lo says:

    Inspired!
    I love it when local meals come together — and become this delicious, and this beautiful.

    Still waiting for my kohlrabi boat to come in!!!