Food as Feat of Backward Engineering: Curiously Sweet and Spicy Mustard

August 19th, 2009

dripping mustard

Next post, I’m going to surrender every shred of foodie cred I’ve earned.   I’m going down in style and you’re coming with me. This week, then, let’s gather our supplies.  Follow these instructions, and you’ll be set for the apocalypse.

First, we make the mustard.

Some people plan their vacations around spectacular destinations in the natural world, or decadent spa getaways where the week becomes one endless sauna, skin renewing massage and herbal spritzer. Then there’s The Smithsonian, 42nd Street, Tate Modern. Other culturally curious spots are the Salem Witch Trial Memorial, the Glass Bottle Houses, the Tower of Baa, the house-sized representation of the shoe that old lady lived in, and the field of Plexiglas cows lowing halfway between St. Louis and Milwaukee.

But Simon and me? We travel for farms and fondue.  And we brake for mustard museums.

spicy mustard on spoon

This mustard recipe is a home reverse-construction of a wonderfully sweet and spicy mustard that we picked up two years ago when we came to a screeching halt before the Mt. Horeb Mustard Museum. The original mustard was made by a small company called Slimme and Nunne’s, and the mustard varietal, Sweet and Nicely Spicy, is striking stuff.  In fact, though we’d tried a lot of mustard (the shop  would let you sample your way through all 300+ varieties of mustard if you had the time and the stomach for it) we were so stricken that we bought four jars of it.  We wept when we opened the last jar  sometime around Christmas, and this July we took the very long way home from Iowa just so we could pass through Mt. Horeb and stock up on enough to get us through the winter.

Scapes are one thing, but it’s not practical to drive 350 miles for mustard, and I resolved to figure out a passable formula before we polished off the spoils of this last trip. And with this recipe I’ve come pretty darn close. The secret seems to be that it’s more nectar (or, in the store-bought version, corn syrup) than mustard.

spicy mustard cracker

Here’s a quick note on mustard’s health properties (oh, you were waiting for it, weren’t you?) Mustard is a Brassica, and part of the cruciferous family of plants, which means that eating your mustard is almost as good as eating your broccoli. As such, mustard seeds (which is what mustard powder is made of, which is what mustard paste is begot from) contain lots of phytonutrients. I won’t go into which ones, but if you’re interested you can look here. Even if you can’t pronounce them, you’ll still get the benefits of said phytonutrients, and the ones in mustard (and broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, etc) have been studied for their ability to thwart cancer – both actively and preventatively.

Now, make your mustard!

more mustard shots

The Home Version of Sweet and Curiously Spicy Mustard
1/2 cup dry mustard powder
¼ cup + 2 tablespoons water
¾ cup agave nectar*
½  cup + 2 tablespoons honey*
1/2 cup cider vinegar
pinch of  allspice (maybe 1/8 teaspoon, not much)
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
¼  – ½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (I used a combo of Ancho and Aleppo, but I always do)
Two shakes of hot sauce
2 tablespoons cornstarch or tapioca starch
2 tablespoons cold water

* You can use a combination of honey and agave nectar, or you could also probably use one or the other. I use both because the nectar is sweeter and thinner, while the honey adds a consistency that pulls the other ingredietns together.  Also, the scent of the honey holds up against the other, harsher smells, and that changes the palate experience.

mustard in stainless

In a small bowl combine mustard powder and the water and whisk vigorously until well combined and smooth.  Let sit for about 15 minutes. Then, with a spatula scrape the mustard into a small nonreactive saucepan and add the agave nectar and honey. Stir well, then turn heat on medium low and warm slightly. Add the vinegar, allspice, red pepper, black pepper, salt and hot sauce. Stir well and bring to a simmer. Allow to simmer on stove for about 5 minutes, stirring often.

Combine the starch and the cold water in a small bowl and stir until it’s a paste. Add about half of this to the mustard mix on the stove, stir well, and let simmer lightly for a few minutes. It will thicken quickly, and at this point you can judge if you’d like to add more of the starch mixture or leave it as is. Allow it to cool, and place the mustard in jars (this will yield about 9 ounces – a decent sized jar plus some.

If you make a lot of it you could water boil it to seal the jars, but it’s so easy to make that it’s not necessary. Opened jars keep, refrigerated, for about 2 months.

If you make this, I really, really want to know: were Simon and I crazy to drive hazy,  humid, farmland roads to snag a few more jars of this stuff? Or is it as good as it is in our vivid, food-obsessed minds?  What idiosyncratic uses for mustard have you got, and how will you use this one?

Food as Happiness

August 11th, 2009

Bhutanese Red Rice with Quinoa, Black Beluga Lentils, Harissa and Mint (trust me)

red rice beluga salad header 2

Ink runs from the corners of my mouth,
There is no happiness like mine.
I have been eating poetry

Mark Strand, “Eating Poetry” (1968)

While I was outside shooting up-close photos of my dinner (to the undiminished bemusement of my neighbors, even after all this time), the cat ran off with my cheese. Those who say that animals don’t feel emotions have never seen a cat that has just made off with the lion’s share of the camembert. It was happiness all right, pure and simple.  Followed by just enough self-awareness and subsequent guilt (when I came stomping into the room) to keep him alive.

grendel w cheese

grendel caught

It’s okay though, because before he did that I was having trouble writing about happiness, and yet I must. There doesn’t seem to be any way to write about Bhutan without writing about happiness. And there’s no way to write about Bhutanese red rice without paying homage to the place that it comes from.

Bhutan is a nation of the incredibly poor yet paradoxically and uncommonly  rich. Located in South Asia and bordered by the Himalayas, it has been one of the most isolated nations in the world. Until 1999, there was a national ban on television, the Internet and cell phones (I think I want to live there).  In the last 10 years Bhutan has acquired some mod cons, but somehow these have not come at the expense of its Gross National Happiness. In 1972 Bhutan’s former King Jigme Singye Wangchuck declared that Gross National Happiness was Bhutan’s national guiding philosophy, granting it precedence over Gross National Product. This was a part of his commitment to build an economy fitted to Bhutan’s unique culture and based upon its spiritual and humanistic values.

red bhutanese  rice

And the result has been a nation that has slowly modernized while still preserving its culture, traditions, identity and natural environment.   In a 2005 survey, 45% of Bhutanese reported being very happy, 52% reported being happy and just 3% said they were not happy. This places Bhutan’s happiness level within the top 10% of nations worldwide. But don’t just ask them. In 2006, Business Week magazine rated Bhutan the happiest country in Asia and the eighth-happiest in the world.

I was having trouble writing about happinesss because happiness seemed just too big.  I was taking my happiness way too seriously. Then the cat reminded me:  happiness is in the smallest things, the moments that bloom and fade around us all day long. I suspect that this is the sort of happiness that Bhutan has put a premium on.

And here’s the truth: for a moment, when I saw Grendel licking the parchment that had once held the precious cheese, my regret slipped away and I felt it too. Happiness is contagious.

It’s also good for you. The BBC just published a study that finds that happy people live longer.  Though they called it “optimism”, the state that the article describes is more akin to happiness. It’s possible, after all, to be optimistic while harboring hostile thoughts.  But the article describes that warm, grounding, moment to moment sense of connectedness to the present, that flash when self-consciousness fades and we open to receive the energy around us.  You know,  happiness.

red rice black beluga lentils

Happiness is what you feel when. When you take a single bite of tangy, unbelievably decadent Nettle Meadow’s Kunik goat cheese, smeared liberally onto a wedge of homemade crusty bread. No, it really, really is.  Big happiness.  Or when you come inside after mowing the lawn on a staggeringly humid afternoon and bite into a chilled Sungold cherry tomato, snatched hours earlier from your garden.  Or when you laugh louder than you know you should, or catch the expression in your young niece’s face when you do.  Or better yet, when she doesn’t know anyone is looking. It’s also the look in your fiance’s face when he’s wrestling with a bit of code and has forgotten you’re in the room.  It’s the way your muscles are just a step behind your intentions a half hour after a really satisfying workout. It’s taking far more photos than you need to, and sharing all of them, simply because you love the world as it’s magnified and reflected through the lens. It’s a single, perfect line of poetry. It’s finding out what brings happiness to the people that make you happy.

red quinoa

black lentils

So do something a little bit bad just to know you’re alive. Eat something so spicy it makes you flush like you’ve gotten away with something. Let your child dig into the cake before it cools, give him extra icing. Laugh louder than you know you should, and  for goodness sake, run off with the cheese.

red rice salad header

The Recipe:

This may look suspiciously like a previous recipe, but it’s nations apart.  It’s true that these days black beluga lentils are making me quite happy, and in the lazy heat of August, so do easy-peasy recipes. But this one has mint, harissa, tomatoes, oh, and Bhutanese red rice and red quinoa.

The harissa adds that je ne sais qua, a burst of warm, smoky flavor that transforms the dish from something familiar to something exotic and wondrous. If you make the harissa yourself, be sure to use a generous amount of smoked chiles in the mix – it adds a three-fold complexity to your dish. The mint pairs beautifully with the harissa and the citrus flavors. So many distinct tastes present themselves here, melding seamlessly into a lively, chewy, meaty, satiating meal.

harissa on spoon

Bhutanese red rice is not a bean, you’re right, but it is an heirloom. Grown at 8,000 feet in the Himalayas, it has a flavor that is both grassy and almond-like, meaty and earthy with a chewy texture.  It’s rich enough to stand up to big flavors, and the insistent texture makes it a solid meal base. Nutritionally, it has the same vitamins and minerals as brown rice but cooks in half the time.  I find it at Whole Foods and at international grocery stores, but it can also be ordered online.

I also tossed in a bit of red quinoa. The color made me laugh, what can I say? I also love the way that quinoa takes on the appearance of tiny crinoids after it’s cooked. It’ s very nutty and a touch fluffy and with the rice and lentils it forms a complete amino acid chain (in other words, you don’t need meat to get all your protein).

red rice red quinoa

I don’t know what Lucy will advise, but in the name of happiness, for God’s sake, pair this with an extra-dry (not Brut or sec) champagne. Open a bottle just for you, and don’t feel bad about throwing out what you can’t drink in one sitting. Or do what I’ll do – use the rest to make champagne mustard.

Bhutanese Red Rice with Quinoa, Black Beluga Lentils, Harissa and Mint
1 cup cooked black beluga lentils (brown lentils will do too)
2 cups cooked Bhutanese red rice
I cup cooked Incan red quinoa
1 medium cucumber, chopped into small pieces
2 small slicing tomatoes or a generous handful of cherry tomatoes, diced
juice of one lemon, maybe a bit more depending on taste
1 ½ tablespoons olive oil, maybe a bit less depending on taste
1 generous handful of fresh parsley, minced
3 tablespoons fresh mint, minced (peppermint, spearmint, citrus mint all work nicely)
a tablespoon of harissa
1/2 cup good, creamy goat cheese, crumbled
Freshly ground pepper

Combine cooked rice and lentils in a large bowl. Stir in chopped cucumber and tomatoes, then squeeze in the lemon juice and add olive oil. Stir to combine, then add chopped parsley and mint and toss again. Stir in crumbled cheese, then add black pepper to taste. Garnish with hairssa – but be sure to stir it in before chomping down!

red rice salad in sun

Food as Vehicle for Odd Behavior: Mint Chutney

July 28th, 2009

ginger mint chutney

I try.

chutney food proc

and try

in food processor

No matter. Makes no difference, the contemplation I give it, nor how I tweak the angle or shift the blinds to change the light, no matter what stool, phone book or chair I stand on, I just cannot snap an artful food processor pic.

mint in food processor

Burp does it. So does Lisa. Shutterbean could if she wanted to. And Heidi Swanson will probably have a book of them soon. But not me. (And you should picture me in my kitchen, trying.  Because I do.)

I can, however, make a mint chutney that stops my Nepalese co-worker in her tracks.  I just make sure to scoop it out of the food processor before serving.

chutney on chip

The recipe is short and sweet and the chutney is sweet, hot, zesty and bursting with phyto-nutrients, and right this very minute, if you walk out into your garden patch, I just bet you’ll be able to grab a handful of almost everything you need to make your own unbecoming-in-the-making-but-gorgeous-on-a-chip mint chutney. .

So, what do you do with it? Well, Simon and I practically eat it with a spoon but that’s not typical behavior. Neither, probably, is dipping tomatoes in it which is also what we’ve ended up doing, if only because it’s a race to eat all this garden goodness before it’s past the sell-by date. But hey, it works for us. It also works well with salty chips, baked or boiled potatoes, and (it goes without saying) na’an bread. People who eat meat say it’s a nice bright accompaniment to chicken and lamb, and it’s also right at home alongside fritters. And Cathy at Not Eating Out in New York made a gorgeous mint chutney potato salad. What creative uses am I missing though? Please let me know and hurry – the mint is on the basement stairs and climbing up!

meyer lemon slices

mint chutney w naan

Mint Cilantro Chutney

Here’s a basic ratio (thanks to Ruhlman, I’m now thinking in them): two parts mint to one part cilantro, and for every two cups of herbs you want the juice and zest of one lemon. Use Meyer’s lemons if you can get them – they’re slightly sweet (you know, in a tart kind of way) and balance the heat and the mint perfectly. I don’t have to tell you to adjust the heat to your liking – use the chile seeds if you can take it, use half a chile if you’re tender-tongued. And if you’re like my mom, well, you don’t want to make this at all.

This time, Lucy had almost more to say than I did. Here’s her wine pick for mint chutney: Indian food is a tricky thing to pair and it is, by far, safest to stick with whites, more specifically whites from Alsace.  With spicy food, very few areas consistently pair better.  For something both spicy and herbaceous, Gewurtztraminer is always a safe bet.  This grape with the daunting name (pronounced Guh-verts-tra-mee-ner) is seldom featured in restaurants with spicy food, I think, simply because no will order it lest they have to trip over the difficult Germanic name.  Practice saying it at home 5 times and you will appear to be a wine genius the next time you go out.  When you do order, look the waiter in the eye and confidently trill over the name.  Trust me you will leave both friends and loved ones simply agog with your wine acumen.  Other safe bets from that region include Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris,  Kabinett Reisling (any sweeter and you will choke on your naan), or a Muscadet (make sure you do not a get a dessert bottling).  Rose also works well with spicy food.  I cannot, in good conscience, recommend drinking red with a this pairing, but, if you simply must, stick to something with a low alcohol content as high alcohol wines tend to intensify heat on the palate.  Your best bets for low alcohol reds that may work would come from France such as Beaujolais.

naan ginger mint chutney

The Recipe

2 cups fresh mint leaves
1 cup fresh cilantro
Juice and zest of 1 ½ (or 2 – taste and see) Meyer’s lemons
1 fresh hot chile, seeded or not, and you pick the heat (I used a jalapeno because, despite all my bluster, I’m not as reckless as I pretend to be)
1 teaspoon turbinado sugar
½ teaspoon salt

Remove cilantro and mint leaves from the stems and discard the stems. Wash and spin dry the fresh herbs, then place them, along with the lemon juice and zest and the chile in a food processor. Run the processor until ingredients are pureed and well combined. Add the salt and sugar while the processor is running, then scrape down the sides and pulse a few more times. Face down your chile choice and dig in!


And here’s what else is going on in the garden (and, subsequently, in the kitchen, though it can’t count as cooking) these days.  The small, mottled tomato is called Isis Candy, and it’s an heirloom that I haven’t seen before, though my seed-saving friend Steph knows them.  I picked up the plant at an herb sale in April, and as the name suggests, Isis Candy is sweet and fruity, and when just ripened they have a bit of a bi-color yellow-red pattern going. Bitten into, the red becomes more like a haunting, a soft glow here and there. I don’t know anything about the variety though so if you do,  please share.

The other golf-ball sized red tomatoes are some other kind of heirloom from the garden. Right now we have more tomatoes than we have kitchen time, but I’ll check my tags and let you know which was whcih.

The huge tomato is Lennie’s Oxheart, a hefty, meaty, low-acid slicing tomato.  It’s incredibly productive in the garden this year.  It, too, is an heirloom and the seeds are currently distributed by Seed Saver’s Exchange.

lennies oxheart raw milk

isis candy tomato w tarragon

isis candy

isis candy bitten

Food as Tease: Black Bean Brownies…

July 21st, 2009

…with Oats, Cardamom and Cacao Nibs

black bean cardamom brownies

(Vegetarian, Gluten-free option)

Printable Version


The worst sort of tease, I’m afraid.

I showed up at the Seed Saver’s Exchange annual convention in Decorah, Iowa, set up my exhibit table to talk about the bean project, and distributed Beanstock bookmarks, instructions for 5 unexpected ways to cook beans, and a few of my favorite recipes, printed prettily on note cards.  Plus I fed the masses with tempting little bites of black bean and oat brownies sprinkled with crunchy cacao nibs.

About 400 people came through, and more than half of them tasted the brownies. The Seed Saver’s staff ate the rest. And the two questions I got, unfailingly in this order, went just like this:  “There are beans in these brownies??  Is the recipe on your website?”

“Black Valentines,” I’d declare, obviously quite proud, and spring into a happy spiel about the dark chocolate undertones of some of the heirloom black beans and the fact that you just can’t find this complexity in the hybrid, mono-cropped produce. “And the recipe?” they’d gently nudge. “Is that on your site?”

Oh, dear readers.  That was a terrible thing for me to do.  I do have recipes posted for black bean cupcakes and black bean cookies, I’d explain, but the brownies, well, no. “Not yet,” I’d hedge, “but it will be the first recipe I post when I get back.”

It was only that I’d adapted a brownie recipe on the fly very  late the night before the conference, whipping up enough batter to feed a foodie crowd, without ever without jotting down a single note. Baking is precision and I often feel like the antithesis of exactitude, or, in other words, it’s nothing shy of a full-blown miracle that these brownies turned out so spectacularly. But my goodness, they did. Rich, fudgy, earthy, with a complex texture created by oats and a sprinkling of cocoa nibs. Invitingly sweet but not too, and exotically infused with cinnamon and a pinch of cardamom.

They were very good.

black bean brownie crumbs

I’m back now. And here’s that recipe.

Black Bean Brownies with Oats, Cardamom and Cacao Nibs

black bean brownie slice

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1 cup unsalted butter
1/1/2  cups Black Valentine beans (or other black beans)
1 cup rolled oats
1 1/2 cups flour**
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/3  cup strong brewed coffee (espresso is ideal)
¼ teaspoon sea salt
4 large eggs
1 cup packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
½ teaspoon cardamom
Coarse turbinado
*Cacao – er, Kakao — nibs

*A note about the nibs: These are cocoa beans, toasted, roasted, shelled and broken into bits. To my taste buds, cacao nibs are richer and more intense than the eventual chocolate that they become.  I first tasted them in a truffle made by Brian Pelletier, the chocolatier extraordinaire at Kakao Chocolate. It’s also where I got the nibs – and if you want some, you can get them from him too. He’s St. Louis based but he ships – and you should definitely try the salted caramels while you’re ordering. And the ginger bark. And the lavender truffles. Oh and the toasted almond bar…. It’s good stuff, people. Very good!

**If you want to make a gluten-free brownie, you can use a mixture of 1/4 cup mesquite flour and 1 1/4 cups quinoa flour. Or use a gluten-free baking mix, but keep in mind that those tend to contain baking powder already.

How to make the brownies: Preheat the oven to 345°F. Line an 11- by 18-inch baking pan with parchment paper.

Using a double boiler or a microwave, melt the chocolate and butter together in a glass bowl.  If using the microwave, heat for 1 1/2 minutes and stir, then heat in 40 second intervals, stirring between each, until the chocolate is completely melted and smooth.

Place the beans, vanilla, and 1/3 of the melted chocolate in a food processor and process until smooth. Add the cinnamon and cardamom and mix again. Scrape down the sides, then add the salt and baking powder and pulse a few times to mix. Add the oats and flour and blend again. The mixture will be smooth and pourable.

In a large bowl, stir together the remaining melted chocolate mixture and the coffee. Mix thoroughly and set aside.

In another bowl (yes, sorry, we’re messing up your kitchen here), use an electric mixer to beat the eggs until whipped, about two minutes. Add the brown sugar and beat until smooth.

Add the bean/chocolate mixture to the coffee/chocolate mixture. Stir until blended well. Gradually fold in the egg mixture and mix well. Pour your batter into the prepared baking pan, then sprinkle the top of the batter with coarse sugar crystals.

Bake at 340 degrees for about 10 minutes, then slide the tray out of the oven and generously  sprinkle the top of the brownies with cacao nibs. At this point the batter will be firm enough to keep them from sinking to the bottom (sorry to all those who tasted my brownies and thought they were eating crunchy beans).  Return tray to the oven and continue baking until the brownies are set and firm to the touch, about 25 minutes more.  Remove from oven, sprinkle again with sugar crystals and slide the brownies out of the pan to cool. Allow to cool fully before slicing them.

Thanks to all of you who came by and chatted. It was a true pleasure to meet you, in particular those of you who met me there last year and have been reading ever since.

I will write more about the convention soon, but for now, here are a few photos. Apparently, still a tease…

moveable greenhouse
A moveable greenhouse, per Eliot Coleman’s design. Coleman was the keynote speaker at the event.
heritage chicken
A heritage chicken, housed at Seed Saver’s Exchange. SSE keeps heirloom livestock, including several poultry varieties and cattle.

alium at sse

heritage herb garden sse