Posts Tagged ‘fresh mint’

Food as Vehicle for Odd Behavior: Mint Chutney

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009

ginger mint chutney

I try.

chutney food proc

and try

in food processor

No matter. Makes no difference, the contemplation I give it, nor how I tweak the angle or shift the blinds to change the light, no matter what stool, phone book or chair I stand on, I just cannot snap an artful food processor pic.

mint in food processor

Burp does it. So does Lisa. Shutterbean could if she wanted to. And Heidi Swanson will probably have a book of them soon. But not me. (And you should picture me in my kitchen, trying.  Because I do.)

I can, however, make a mint chutney that stops my Nepalese co-worker in her tracks.  I just make sure to scoop it out of the food processor before serving.

chutney on chip

The recipe is short and sweet and the chutney is sweet, hot, zesty and bursting with phyto-nutrients, and right this very minute, if you walk out into your garden patch, I just bet you’ll be able to grab a handful of almost everything you need to make your own unbecoming-in-the-making-but-gorgeous-on-a-chip mint chutney. .

So, what do you do with it? Well, Simon and I practically eat it with a spoon but that’s not typical behavior. Neither, probably, is dipping tomatoes in it which is also what we’ve ended up doing, if only because it’s a race to eat all this garden goodness before it’s past the sell-by date. But hey, it works for us. It also works well with salty chips, baked or boiled potatoes, and (it goes without saying) na’an bread. People who eat meat say it’s a nice bright accompaniment to chicken and lamb, and it’s also right at home alongside fritters. And Cathy at Not Eating Out in New York made a gorgeous mint chutney potato salad. What creative uses am I missing though? Please let me know and hurry – the mint is on the basement stairs and climbing up!

meyer lemon slices

mint chutney w naan

Mint Cilantro Chutney

Here’s a basic ratio (thanks to Ruhlman, I’m now thinking in them): two parts mint to one part cilantro, and for every two cups of herbs you want the juice and zest of one lemon. Use Meyer’s lemons if you can get them – they’re slightly sweet (you know, in a tart kind of way) and balance the heat and the mint perfectly. I don’t have to tell you to adjust the heat to your liking – use the chile seeds if you can take it, use half a chile if you’re tender-tongued. And if you’re like my mom, well, you don’t want to make this at all.

This time, Lucy had almost more to say than I did. Here’s her wine pick for mint chutney: Indian food is a tricky thing to pair and it is, by far, safest to stick with whites, more specifically whites from Alsace.  With spicy food, very few areas consistently pair better.  For something both spicy and herbaceous, Gewurtztraminer is always a safe bet.  This grape with the daunting name (pronounced Guh-verts-tra-mee-ner) is seldom featured in restaurants with spicy food, I think, simply because no will order it lest they have to trip over the difficult Germanic name.  Practice saying it at home 5 times and you will appear to be a wine genius the next time you go out.  When you do order, look the waiter in the eye and confidently trill over the name.  Trust me you will leave both friends and loved ones simply agog with your wine acumen.  Other safe bets from that region include Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris,  Kabinett Reisling (any sweeter and you will choke on your naan), or a Muscadet (make sure you do not a get a dessert bottling).  Rose also works well with spicy food.  I cannot, in good conscience, recommend drinking red with a this pairing, but, if you simply must, stick to something with a low alcohol content as high alcohol wines tend to intensify heat on the palate.  Your best bets for low alcohol reds that may work would come from France such as Beaujolais.

naan ginger mint chutney

The Recipe

2 cups fresh mint leaves
1 cup fresh cilantro
Juice and zest of 1 ½ (or 2 – taste and see) Meyer’s lemons
1 fresh hot chile, seeded or not, and you pick the heat (I used a jalapeno because, despite all my bluster, I’m not as reckless as I pretend to be)
1 teaspoon turbinado sugar
½ teaspoon salt

Remove cilantro and mint leaves from the stems and discard the stems. Wash and spin dry the fresh herbs, then place them, along with the lemon juice and zest and the chile in a food processor. Run the processor until ingredients are pureed and well combined. Add the salt and sugar while the processor is running, then scrape down the sides and pulse a few more times. Face down your chile choice and dig in!


And here’s what else is going on in the garden (and, subsequently, in the kitchen, though it can’t count as cooking) these days.  The small, mottled tomato is called Isis Candy, and it’s an heirloom that I haven’t seen before, though my seed-saving friend Steph knows them.  I picked up the plant at an herb sale in April, and as the name suggests, Isis Candy is sweet and fruity, and when just ripened they have a bit of a bi-color yellow-red pattern going. Bitten into, the red becomes more like a haunting, a soft glow here and there. I don’t know anything about the variety though so if you do,  please share.

The other golf-ball sized red tomatoes are some other kind of heirloom from the garden. Right now we have more tomatoes than we have kitchen time, but I’ll check my tags and let you know which was whcih.

The huge tomato is Lennie’s Oxheart, a hefty, meaty, low-acid slicing tomato.  It’s incredibly productive in the garden this year.  It, too, is an heirloom and the seeds are currently distributed by Seed Saver’s Exchange.

lennies oxheart raw milk

isis candy tomato w tarragon

isis candy

isis candy bitten

Food: The Way to Travel

Friday, April 3rd, 2009

Zucchini-Carrot Vegetable Cakes with Dill, Oregano, and Mint

patty-header

(Vegetarian, Vegan, Gluten-free Option)

Last week, I hauled  steaming-fresh mulch into my garden – 200 pounds, moved in several satisfyingly arm-fatiguing trips.  Then I stood in the sun, which fitted itself to my body and slowly, insistently warmed me until I was bare-armed, bare-legged but prudently gloved.  I churned up the soil, removed debris, raked the ground flat again, certain muscles rising out of dormancy with the hyacinths. Finally I pressed my knees into the dirt and planted: spinach, lettuce, peas, beets, chard, radishes.  Hope made tangible. And heirlooms, every last seed. When I finally put my tools away and dragged myself inside, I thought I’d scored my first dusty tan of the season –  until the hot shower sent it funneling down the drain.  Ah spring. Such a singular happiness.

That night I really did dream of my little seedlings. In my dreamtime backyard, which had become a forest, I wandered, randomly shoving my hands into thickets of foliage, the brushed-leaf scent so vibrant and sharp that it lingers still. Each time my fingers filled with plump, glowing fruits — corn, peppers, fat spicy radishes full of moisture. And the shades – hot pink, gold bar, emerald and amethyst (just like —  go ahead and say it — this prose. I am well aware).  It’s possible that I laughed in my sleep (yes, well aware. but it’s still true).

I woke to three inches of snow sheathing the garden.  And the wind!  It was gone by noon, but still. This weekend, the weatherman is calling for a hard freeze Sunday and another couple of snow showers next week — after a 70-degree-and-sunny Saturday.

I shouldn’t act so indignant. None of us should. Truth is, we’ve barely scratched the surface of spring, at least as far as the calendar is concerned. And I think we forget how radically things have changed in the last two decades. Not long ago, it wasn’t uncommon to get a persistent freeze in April. There’s more than one Easter photo of my siblings and me collecting eggs in the snow.  When I really consider it, I mourn the loss of winter as it was – and the implications of that loss.

This isn’t to say that when spring finally arrives, I won’t be shovel-ready for it.

Deprivation is nature’s finest seasoning and I’ve been pulled thin by this terrible ache for the taste of things fresh and green.  I long for them the way that octuplets mother must long for silence.  The mint has begun to come back in the yard, and I keep checking at the woody base of the oregano for any deer-ear shaped growth. I’m pining for dill and the licorice-mint bite of new basil. Last weekend it felt so close. And then that  snow.

dill1

mint

I couldn’t stand it anymore, folks. I broke all the eat-local rules and I went a little crazy.  If Spring can’t quite make it to me, then I decided I was going out to find it.

I swooped into my local Asian grocery, where you can buy huge bunches of fresh-ish herbs for negligible amounts of cash.  I hit those aisles running and wantonly threw one of everything into my basket. A bunch of dill, two hands of ginger, some fresh peppermint and a large, glorious vase-full of basil. A papaya, an avocado, and a mango. Cilantro, of course, and parsley. Then I went home and figured out what to do with it all.

I ended up with beautiful (but, alas, not photogenic) papaya and mango spring rolls. And these zucchini-carrot vegetable cakes with a little bit of everything stirred in.

veggie-patty

Zucchini-Carrot Cakes with All Sorts of Fresh Herbs and Mint-Dill Pesto
1 lb tofu, pressed
1/4 cup toasted pine nuts
1/4 cup toasted walnuts
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
the zest of that lemon
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
3 tablespoons fresh oregano
3 tablespoons fresh dill, minced
2-3 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
1/2 zucchini, peeled and grated
1/2 cup grated carrots
1 red bell pepper, finely diced
1 teaspoon salt
fresh ground black pepper
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
oil for cooking

chopped-veggies

In a food processor, combine the tofu, pine nuts, walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, lemon zest, and half the fresh herbs. Process until the mixture is smooth, then transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Stir in 1/2 cup of the bread crumbs and the other half of the fresh herbs. Add more bread crumbs until you have the consistency of a wet dough.  Stir in the zucchini, carrots and bell pepper and gently mix.

At this point you can either bake or pan-cook them in oil. If you want to bake, heat oven to 375. Brush a tray with oil, and set aside. Form the zucchini mix into patties, then coat them with extra bread crumbs. Brush lightly with oil and place them on the tray. Bake until browned and crispy on the outside, about 35 minutes, flipping once or twice for good measure.

If you want them skillet-fried, heat a thin layer of oil in a large pan. When the oil his hot enough that it sizzles when a drop of the batter hits it, place the zucchini patties in the oil and cook, flipping once, until they are browned on both sides, about 10 minutes total.

Mint-Dill Pesto
2 parts dill to one part mint
Enough oil to make a paste
Salt to taste
A splash of balsamic vinegar

This part is very unscientific — I was just using up the rest of the gorgeous mint and dill. Place your ingredients in a food processor and whirl until you have a thick sauce. Place a dollop on top each zucchini patty and enjoy!

veggie-patty-bite

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